Sea buckthorn. Elderberry. Fermented rye bread. Pickled cherries. Salt-baked beets. These ingredients, which sound like they could be from a Dr. Seuss children’s book, pepper the menus of the new breed of Nordic restaurants.
The modern wave of Scandinavian cuisine takes a unique, minimalist approach, increasingly moving far beyond the signature, well-known dishes of the region like Swedish meatballs. In part, thanks to the massive influence of René Redzepi's game-changing Copenhagen restaurant Noma, which is closing after a 13-year run, chefs around the U.S. are offering their takes on simple but incredibly flavorful dishes that are made with Nordic ingredients while also emphasizing what's local, fresh, and seasonal. It's the "New Nordic," and it's all about purity.
There are two options for enjoying Aska, the critically acclaimed Brooklyn restaurant from young, ambitious chef Fredrik Berselius: Reserve months in advance for a mind-blowing tasting menu experience, and be prepared to eat some unusual sea dwellers, dehydrated organs, and things like moss; or, simply pop in, head downstairs to the casual Edda bar, and enjoy cocktails featuring aquavit, a glass of natural wine, and one of the delicious snacks on offer. Don’t miss the Swedish pancake, a light crepe topped with salted beef, farmers’ cheese, and dill—it’s perfect for sharing with a friend.
“We like things to be simple, not covered up. The atmosphere is pared down, with no distractions, and a sense of straightforwardness.”
Of course, there's also the notion of hygge, a concept that's sweeping the U.S. alongside the spreading Noma effect. Pronounced "hoo-gah," the best translation would be "cozy." As Pernille Folkersen, sommelier and manager at N'eat, a recently opened Nordic restaurant in New York's East Village, puts it, "Minimum rules, no tablecloths, make people feel welcome-it's feeling relaxed and comfortable." Her native Denmark is ranked as the number one happiest country in the world, and Pernille credits the culture of hygge: "When we're feeling overwhelmed by life, we just say, 'Oh well, we'll be hygge."
This à la carte-only downtown Manhattan restaurant is true hygge; you'll feel right at home, whether you're just enjoying some snacks-to be eaten with fingers-or some of the heartier dishes, like the boneless short rib with fermented cherry sauce.
Honoring Minnesota's Scandinavian immigrant heritage, this restaurant in a historic, restored warehouse in Minneapolis focuses on locally sourced ingredients while employing traditional techniques of Nordic cooking: smoking, salt-curing, and confit root vegetables, as some examples. A truly stellar wine list and relaxed atmosphere round out the experience. Make your weekend with the Sunday Supper three-course meal here, only $36 per person.
You wouldn't know you're inside Grand Central Station at this beautifully designed restaurant from Claus Meyer (who financed Noma) where hygge reigns, natural wine and aquavit (Scandinavian eau-de-vie) cocktails flow, and Icelandic chef Gunnar Gíslason offers both à la carte and tasting menu options (including a vegetarian version). Agern boasts Nordic staples like salt- and ash-baked root vegetables and arctic char with skyr yogurt sauce; the savory-leaning desserts are absolutely worth saving room for.
“Minimum rules, no tablecloths, make people feel welcome, it's feeling relaxed and comfortable.”
This highly acclaimed restaurant on a remote island north of Seattle is where young chef and Noma alum Blaine Wetzel made his name serving an ambitious tasting menu featuring local delights of the sea, wild herbs, and fresh farm greens, and otherwise employing the Redzepi approach to ingredient sourcing. It's tasting-menu-only, and should be reserved well in advance. Enjoy the view.
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